Paris Notes
The newsletter for
people who love
Paris
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Paris Notes |
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Paris Notes Back Issue PDFs PDF files are best viewed using the most current version of Adobe Reader, which can be downloaded for free at www.adobe.com
Petites Notes: New street WCs, "sanisettes" are hitting the streets • Terraces are springing up everywhere, but they're noisy • Finally, new taxi upgrades are helping riders have better rides • Paris is the star is a host of new Paris movies • The infamous "tapis roulant" is shut down for good Restaurants: La Tour d'Argent An Unlikely Empress: The drama-filled, tumultuous life of Napoleon's Josephine What a Hoot: New York Herald editor James Gordon Bennett lived large in Paris Paris Visit: Rosey scents at Les Parfums de Rosine Paris Visit: Alain Ducasse shares his secrets at his new Ecole de Cuisine
Peties Notes: It's 40 years since the Les Halles fresh-products market left town • Anti-parking posts growing like daisies • The basin at La Villette turns 200 • An odd plan for the remaking of La Samaritaine department store • A restaurant to replace an hotel on the top of the Palais de Tokyo Restaurants: La Table de Claire, Café des Musées In the Vincennes-ity: A fortress, a chapel, a donjon and a quaint, welcoming city A Model Painter: Suzanne Valadon's surprising rise from model to respected painter Paris Visit: Osmothèque, a center for lost scents Paris Visit: Galerie Slomka, where cartoons are high art
Petites Notes: The Louvre's pyramid turns 20 • Fewer accidents on the streets of Paris • Two exhibitions at the Centre Pompidou are breaking records • It's time for a fresh coat of paint on the Eiffel Tower • Real estate continues its downward spiral Restaurants: Derrière Closed Houses: Brothels ranged from boozy dens to princely palaces of debauchery Cinémathèque 68: Was the civil unrest of 1968 intertwined with the Langlois Affair? Paris Visit: Tati Barbès, discounting for 60 years Paris Visit: Merci, a thrift store with a conscious
Petites Notes: President Sarkozy's future Paris unveiled • Women compete with men for street dedications • Michelin adds stars to the Paris restaurant map • The corner store is back in Paris • Cabarets struggle through hard economic times Restaurants: Fish La Boissonnerie, Le Mirror Dancing with a Star: Stellar success and terrible tragedy awaited Isadora Duncan in Paris State of the Tart: An update on the best pastries in a city know for the best Paris Visit: The Jardin d'Agronomie Tropical, a secret park with a past Paris Visit: Claude Nature, nature specimens for the masses
Petites Notes: The Les Halles renovation project gets a green light • President Sarkozy reveals his own Paris project • Fewer deaths means it's easier to be buried in Paris • The convention business fights to regain its lead • The first steps are taken to make it easier to visit the Eiffel Tower Restaurants: Jadis Grandma's Attic: The Musée Carnavalet is a treasure trove of Paris' past Paris is Burning: Awestruck observers witnessed the last days of the Paris Commune Paris Visit: Some say the chocolate at the Chocolaterie Jacques Genin is the best in town Paris Visit: Paris women flock to Laboratoire Sense of Wonder for Mon Soin du Visage beauty products
Petites Notes: The City is considering replacing Philippe Starck's historical landmark information "shovels" • Paris real estate takes a tumble after a decade of rising prices • A recent consensus confirms that Paris' population is on the rise • The economy is bad, but the movie biz in Paris is thriving • The party is over on the Pont des Arts Restaurants: Le Cinq, Rose Bakery II Still Viable Viaduct: Fifty unique shops and ateliers are still thriving after 15 years Hotel Update: It was only a short step from designer days to narrative nights Paris Visit: The new Forum des Images, a cinematic resource for Paris cinephiles Paris Visit: Fashion and its history are front and center at the Musée Galliera
Petites Notes: The City tries to improve prospects for the Bouquinistes • Cafés continue to decline in numbers • The art bought in Montmartre might just be from China • January's winter sales being promoted by the City • In Paris, Christmas is all about little white lights Restaurants: Le Hide, Au Vieux Chêne Backstage with Guignol: Children—and adults—love the puppets in the Luxembourg Gardens Putting on the Ritz: César Ritz was king of a world whose capital was Paris Paris Visit: Collège des Bernardins, open to the public for the first time in 750 years Paris Visit: Le Centquatre, once the City's mortuary, now a contemporary art center
Petites Notes: The new Les Halles gets the green light • Eiffel stairs get sold at auction • Youngest Métro line turns 10 • Parisians go to Ma Tante to pawn their valuables • The RATP announces a final, final date for the Carte Orange Restaurants: Le Bistro, Le Gaigne The Ultimate Survivor: Talleyrand dexterously served France—and himself—in volatile times Cinematic Strolls: Paris is seventh heaven for fans of the "septième art" Paris Visit: Musée de l'Informatique, an ode to computers Paris Visit: Duc des Lombards carries on the Paris jazz legacy
Petites Notes: Travel by Americans to Paris way down • The Colonnes de Buren under renovation • The Marais tests a car-free zone • Anti-Advertising militants make a point • Naming streets after famous people easier said than done Retaurants: Rosa's favorite Japanese restaurants Perpetual Motion: Revisting Père-Lachaise, the Champs-Elysées of cemeteries Hotel Update: With travel budgets shrinking, inexpensive hotels are back in play Paris Visit: Les Catacombes de Paris, open again and creepier than ever Paris Visit: Musée de l'Homme, a special exhibition before closing for renovation
Petites Notes: Paris to add three new luxury "palace" hotels • Rents on the Champs keep Apple away • The City prepares for the 120th anniversary of the Eiffel Tower • Paris gets more expensive while the quality of life goes down • Finally, there's talk of allowing stores to open on Sundays Restaurants: Itinéraires A Good Mystery: The birthplace of the classic literary mystery is none other than Paris Kids' Couture: Just how do those kids in Paris look so cute and well matched? Paris Visit: after almost a decade of renovation, the Tour Saint-Jacques is unveiled Paris Visit: Paris' only floating pool on the Seine, the Piscine Joséphine Baker
Petites Notes: Navigo Découverte is slowly replacing the Carte Orange Métro pass • Paris' water to be taken over by the City • The Grand Paris concept could expand to the port city of Le Havre • Plans for the new La Samaritaine are revealed • Taking a taxi could get a little easier Restaurants: a review of outdoor terraces for summer eating L'Eau Below: Water still bubbles up from long-ago artesian wells in Paris Jewelry Jewels: Three jewelry designers that shine in the eyes of Parisiennes Paris Visit: the Ballon Air de Paris for a ride and air quality assessment Paris Visit: Livres Rares de Jean de Bonnot, a bibliophile heaven
Petites Notes: The Paris Zoo too shut down for renovations • The five most dangerous traffic locations in the city • The Seine is rapidly becoming a major transportation artery • Parisians are decrying their loss in buying power—even ice cream is going up • The T3 tramway has become such a hit, an extension is being considered Restaurants: L'Epigramme, Au Bon Accueil Cloud Fine: Parc de Saint-Cloud, just outside Paris, is a 1,000-acre fairyland All Said and Done: Parisian Simone de Beauvoir remembered, 100 years after her birth Paris Visit: Historial Charles de Gaulle, a tribute to a great leader Paris Visit, Musée de l'Air et de l'Espace, a wonderfu air and space museum outside Paris
Petites Notes: The Grand Paris plan for enlarging Paris moves forward • Dutch Elm diseaese killed most of Paris' elms, but they are coming back • Amazingly, the Costes Brothers open up their 28th establishment • The numbers are in, and Vélib' is hitting some speeed bumps • Despite an international rumor, the Eiffel Tower will not get a new top floor Restaurants: Le Jules Verne Where There’s a Wall: Meet the Paris artists who have brought art to the streets Rebel With a Cause: Louise Michel fought like a tiger for the underdog Paris Visit: the new history presentation at the Arc de Triomphe Paris Visit: the Musée d’Archéologie Nationale in St-Germain-en-Laye
Petites Notes: Paris picks its annual best baguette winner • Parisians subject to the wealth taxes multiply • Goldenberg's restaurant/deli sadly closes for good • Getting Vélib' credits for pedaling uphill • The Métro is phasing out ticket sellers Restaurants: Afaria, L’Agassin Gobelins Glasnost: Unveiled is a cache of furnishings fit for princes and presidents La Môme Piaf: Edith Piaf first conquered Paris and then the rest of the world Paris Visit: Versailles' Hall of Mirror renovation Paris Visit: Marie Antoinette spent her last days in the Conciergerie
Petites Notes: The Paris muicipal election system explained • Paris' population is growing faster than predicted • Finally, the City gets serious about helping the convention business • A service for buying half-price theater and opera tickets expands • The first Paris dog park to open by the end of the year Restaurants: Il Vino Resting in Peace: America and France commemorate their war dead on Mont Valérien Whistler's Druthers: An American based in London, Whistler loved Paris best Paris Visit: Meeting the French offers unique Paris experiences Paris Visit: Stern Graveur for classy business cards with historic roots
Petites Notes: All of Paris restaurants, cafés and clubs are now smoke free • Tourist poll tend to rate Parisians as grumpy and impolite • Alain Ducasse reopens the Jules Verne restaurant after a challenging renovation • The Métro now will be open later on both Friday and Saturday • Le Club des Croqueurs de Chocolat rate Paris' best chocolates Restaurants: Le Soleil, Racines Hotel Update: Can the new boutique hotels beat the hospitality blues?—five boutqiue hotel reviews Belle Epoque Beauty: The extraordinary life of arts patron Misia Sert Paris Visit: 4 Wheels Under 1 Umbrella gives tours in vintage French cars called 2CVs Paris Visit: Atelier de Moulage du Louvre recreates sculptural masterpieces for purchase by the public
Petites Notes: Municipal elections coming in March • Open-air markets going strong • New street "places to go" coming in 09 • Hotel on a roof • 35,000 trash cans to be designed Retaurants: Rech, Breizh Café Th Cité Upon a Hill: The new Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine's dynamic approach Live at the Olympia: Anyone who's anyone in popular musc has probably played here Paris Visit: The rennovated "donjon" at the Château de Vincennes Paris Visit: A tour of the new Cité Nationale de l'Histoire de l'Immigration
Petites Notes: La Tour d'Argent is back • Métro hits new record for rides • A new De Gaulle memorial to open soon • New Christmas lights for the Champs-Elysées • The City to limit in-city advertising Restaurants: Toustem, Les Cocottes de Christian Constant Brava, Maria: Maria Callas, "La Divina," died in Paris—her home—30 years ago Wi-Fatuation: Free wi-fi is proliferating in parks, public buildings and cafés Paris Visit: La Tuile à Loup offers traditional products from the provinces Paris Visit: Canzi Biocosmétique, where you can make your own cosmetics
Petites Notes: Plans afoot to rebuild the Tuileries Palace • Boulangers don't mind when the price of wheat rises • The Cinémathèque Française shows early signs of success • Mayor Delanoë announces he'll run for another term • The mayor tries to out green the Greens Restaurants: Le Chateaubriand, Mon Viel Ami Vélib'-eration: Taking a ride on one of Paris' new short-term-rental bikes A Musical Love Story: Pianists Robert and Gaby Casadesus made music together Paris Visit: Ecole des Beaux-Arts, a prestigious Paris institution little known by visitors Paris Visit: Paris Charms & Secrets offers city tours on electric bikes
Petites Notes: Les Halles project architectural design chosen • Ranking Paris' cost of living • Versailles' Hall of Mirrors reopens • Château de Vincennes "donjon" reopens • Motor vehicle regulation anniversary • Families in Paris, and how they compare Restaurants: La Gazzetta Longshots at Longchamp: Longchamp horse track offers autumn entertainment and thrills for all He Rode a White Horse: The heights—and depths—of Lafayette's extraordinary career Paris Visit: Pinacothéque de Paris, Paris' newest private art exhibition venue La Chalcographie: Buy professional prints of thousands of the Louvre's works of art
Petites Notes: Velib' free bikes roll out • Starbucks and McDonald's in competition for coffee bucks • Ticket T+, the new Métro ticket, this time it's white • The new president chooses his baker to provide his daily bread • Wi-fi going wide Restaurants: Les Ombres, and other terrace treats Vital Organs: The great church organs of Paris still have the power to inspire One for All Time: The colorful Alexandre Dumas and his famed Musketeers Paris Visit: Pavillon de l'Arsenal, a free tour of Paris architecture Paris Visit: Paris Walks, giving excellent walking tours since 1994
Petites Notes: How Paris voted in the presidential elections • Paris politics heat up in anticipation of next year's mayoral vote • Paris terraces are expensive, but they are great for business • Drinking tap water to hedge against a weak dollar Restaurants: Spring, Le Violin d'Ingres Train Spotting: The Gare de Lyon, from the Orient Express to the TGV The B&B Trend: The City launches an initiative for developing B&Bs—Paris style Paris Visit: Michel Brosseau for a "dry" haircut by a premier Paris stylist that welcomes English-speakers Paris Visit: Colette, selling unique, eclectic and hip things, from shoes to pencils, turns 10
Petites Notes: Chirac was a good mayor • Jean Nouvel to build the Paris Philharmonic venue • Time to replace your old map of Paris • Paris "free" bikes weigh 50 pounds • Foreigners buying up expensive Paris real estate Restaurants: Bistrot Paul Bert, La Ferme des Mathurins Versaille, the Village: There's more to Versailles than a great château—much more Here Lies Ravel: Why composer Maurice Ravel is buried in Levallois-Perret Paris Visit: the newly renovated Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, for hunting and nature enthusiasts Paris Visit: On Rue Tatin Paris, cooking classes from author and instructor Susan Hermann Loomis
Petites Notes: Covered markets struggle to stay profitable • Manners in the Métro top 10 list • Plans progress for the newly intiated free-bike plan • Traffic on the Seine flowing like never before • Belgian fries arrive Retaurants: Le Comptoir du Relais St-Germain, Le Sensing The Princess of Clèves: Madame de Lafayette's classic love story, a still-modern novel Visit: The Musée de l'Assistance Publique/Hôpitaux de Paris, a view of the history of public assistance and hospitatlity Visit: The Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation, a somber yet beautiful tribute to those who suffered Paris Workouts: Some places to go if you simply must work out while in Paris
Petites Notes: Paris will soon offer over 20,000 "free" bikes • The City wants to bag all plastic bags • Beaubourg turns 30 • The first phase of the long-awaited smoking ban starts -- Parisians approve • Marie Curie becomes second woman to get a Métro station Restaurants: Le Buisson Ardent, Le Gorille Blanc Behind the Mask: He was the original Phantom of the Opera: author Gaston Leroux Paris Visit: Rose Bakery, a British owned bakery goes its own way Paris Visit: Fondation Cartier, Paris premier foundation for contemporary art collecting Hotel Update: New hotel offerings in Paris speak to a trend towards the modern
Petites Notes: Chef Alain Ducasse awarded Eiffel Tower restaurant concession • The Bibliothèque Nationale de France in the 13th turns 10 • Under the "nef" of the Grand Palais is cold in winter, hot in summer • The RATP decides to keep the Métro open until 1:30am on Saturdays • American architect Thom Mayne will build Paris' new eco tower Restaurants: A. Beauvilliers and other "traditional" French restaurants Stage-Struck: Corneille, Molière and Racine presided over theater's Golden Age The Bald Soprano at 50: Théâtre de la Huchette celebrates an anniversary of the absurd Paris Visit: Fondation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint-Laurent, YSL's amazing haute couture collection Paris Vist: Tramway des Maréchaux, a new form of transportation stretches east-west across the city
Petites Notes: Ducasse thought to be taking over Eiffel Tower restaurants • Mayor Delnaoë trying to solve a taxi shortage • Doisneau exhibit at town hall near his famous kiss photo • New website called Peuplade bringing Parisians together • Foreigners increasingly buying up Paris properties Restaurants: Le Petit Vatel, Le Petit Pamphlet, Le Violon d"Ingres Circus Classicus: Cirque d'Hiver-Bouglione, a happy 70-year-old tradition Back to the Future: Antiquarian Paris guidebooks reveal both a lot and a little change Paris Visit: Musée de la Vie Romantique, a small museum devoted to Ary Scheffer and George Sand Paris Visit: Musée des Art Forains, fairground art and artifacts
Petites Notes: Paris to be smokeless in February, 2007 • Frank Gehry to bulid the Louis-Vuitton Foundation for Creation in western Paris • Art Deco monument, the Piscine Molitor, to be saved • 20th anniversary of a year of bombs • Skyscrapers could be built on the edge of the city Restuarants: Ribouldinque Battling with Words: How an encyclopedia and some pointed pens led to Revolution Back to Fonatinebleau: Great French châteaux never get old; they just get better Paris Visit: Paris Story, a must-see audio-visual extravaganza about the city Paris Visit: Espace Dalí, an odd Dalí tribute in Montmartre
Petites Notes: Rents in Paris are going up • Parisian workers work fewer hours than many other major cities • The dog population in Paris is in severe decline • The Parvis Notre-Dame officially becomes the Parvis Notre-Dame/Place Jean Paul II • Parisians anxious for their new tramway to open Restaurants: Jean The New Face of Taste: After a ten-year renovation the Musée des Arts Decoratifs reopens Eiffel Power: Gustave Eiffel, the man who built the tower, got off to a slow start Paris Visit: Grévin, celebrity and historical waxworks Paris Visit: Cité de la Musique, the fine musical instrument museum
Petites Notes: Paris ups its high-speed Internet bet using sewers • Thomas Jefferson honored with a statue • The great department stores of Paris in peril • The Hôtel Fouquet's Barrière set to open in October • Iconic singer Serge Gainsbourg's daughter contemplates a museum Retaurants: La Bourse ou la Vie Montmartre Menagerie: The Chat Noir and the Lapin Agile, headquarters for the avant-garde Route of the Tumbrils: Marie Antoinette and many others made their final trip in a tumbril Paris Vist: CinéAqua, Paris new aquarium Paris Vist: Maison Guerlain, an historic venue dedicated to perfume
Petites Notes: Legendary owner of La Tour d'Argent dies • Bike, roller blades, Métro or car—which is fastest? • The 37th Paris bridge opens • Business is good at the Grand Palais • The Parvis Notre Dame becomes Place Jean-Paul II • Small shopkeepers getting old and not being replaced Restaurants: L'Os à Moelle, Chez Les Anges, Les Papilles Vaux on the Go: Vaux-le-Vicomte, the inspiration for Versailles, is better than ever Only in Paris: A search for unique things you can buy only in Paris Paris Visit: Musée des Carrosses, a museum of elegant carriages at Versailles Paris Visit: Château de Champs-sur-Marne, a stunning sample of 18th-century living outside Paris
Petites Notes: Paris goes mad for the Da Vinci Code • Finally, the Musée de l'Orangerie reopens and it's spectacular • The transit authority dumps the Carte Orange pass for the new electronic Navigo • Quality of Living Index ranks Paris thirty-third • Delays in the opening of the new Paris aquarium • Gallo-Roman digs open to the public Restaurants: Le Temps au Temps, La Ferrandaise Back to Versailles: It's time to renew your acquaintance with the "château des châteaux" Josephine's 100th: Josephine Baker loved Paris as much as Parisians loved her Paris Visit: Musée du Montparnasse, a slice of art history Paris Visit: La Roseraie du Val-de-Marne, an exquisite rose garden outside Paris
Pettites Notes: This year's best baguette in Paris awards • New Métro ticket electronic dispensers • Batobus, like a floating Métro on the Seine • Polls of non-smokers indicate that smoking rules in Paris will change • Paris still safe even when there are demonstrations Restaurants: Le Cerisaie, Coconnas The Buzz about Bees: For Paris' many beekeepers, Paris bees are bees that please The Troubled Tower: The Tour St-Jacques' history is a chronicle of misfortunes Paris Visit: Musée Bourdelle, dedicated to one of France's greatest sculptors Paris Visit: Au Petit Bonheur La Chance, a store for old, everyday French knickknacks
Petites Notes: The mayor's wine collection to be sold • American visitors to France up 5.5 percent in 2005 • All Paris' "sanisettes" now free • Story of amazing video of a 1976 race through Paris • Pont Neuf goes into final phase of renovations • La Tour d'Argent looses another Michelin star Restaurants: Drouant MAMVP Makeover: A more modern Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris reopens Rémi Does it Again: The Pavillon de l'Ermitage—Rémi Rivière's second success story Paris Visit: Alexandra Sojfer Umbrellas for the fanciest umbrellas in the world Paris Visit: Le Rouvray Quilts for quilt-making French style
Petite Notes: Paris' famous Morris Columns reduced • The Louvre is king with 7.3 annual visitors • Mayor Delanoë still ahead with Parisians • Paris copies Lyon with bike rental system • Street signs double-up • Small book stores in peril • Ma Langue au Chat treasure hunts, a new phenomemon Restaurants: Gaya by Pierre Gagnaire, l'Avant Gout Hôtel Attitude: The new wave of Paris hotels with attitude is anything but bland Constant Motion: Is the super-chef Christian Constant part of a dying breed? He thinks so Paris Visit: Culture Bière, drinking beer emporium on the Champs Elysées Paris Visit: Musée Nissim de Camondo, a house full of treasures
Petite Notes: Parisians are tipping less • Automobile usage to be cut in half by 2008? • The new "it" neighborhood, the "haut" Marais • The city is winning the war of graffiti • The Monteiul flea market gets a makeover • Strange new plans for Les Halles renovation • New late-night bus called Noctilien Restaurants: Chez Dumonet - Josephine, Benoit Petit Reopening: The landmark Petit Palais reopens after four years of renovation Hot Hot Chocolate: When it's cold in Paris there is nothing better than a chocolat chaud Paris Visit: Des Pieds et des Mains, molds of hands and feet for sale Paris Visit: Librarie Maritime Outremer Le Yacht, a bookstore for sea lovers
GRAND REOPENING: The first renovation phase is finished and the Grand Palais is grander than ever Petite Notes: A country in crisis, the French riots • Thirty-seventh bridge floats into Paris • Paris' "palace" hotels all owned by foreigners • Louis Vuitton reveals its new Champs Elysées mega-store • Recent survey says Paris hotels are cheap Restaurants: Senderens, l'Atelier Maître Albert Paris Pastry Primer: A guide to pastries every Paris visitor should try—more tha once Divine Gifts: Three unique stores where you can buy Christmas gifts to take home Paris Visit: Musee des Lettres et Manuscrits, an incredible collection of famous written words Paris Visit: Cinémathèque Française, the movie museum, screening venue and exhibition space opens
THE LITTLE BELTWAY: Closed for years, a small railroad called the Petite Ceinture once ran to connect and supply Paris Petities Notes: Paris fights for the convention business • Mayor Delanoë appears to the press as bored since he lost the Olympics • A new, revised plan for Les Halles is proposed, but the public is confused • Paris real estate prices rise 12.5 percent in the last year • Parisians in a poll say their city is cleaner than ever Restaurants: Le Réfectoire, Goupil le Bistro Mozart and Haydn: Both composers addes to their repertoires with Paris symphonies Doyens of Design: Three designers define Paris' contribution to contemporary design, Putman, Garcia, Starck Paris Visit: Galerie J. Kugel, the ultimate antique emporium Paris Visit: Goumanyat et Son Royaume, a spice shop with a little of everything
PAINT THE TOWN: Three paintings that tell the story of Paris in three episodes: Regency, Revolution, Republic Petites Notes: Ile de France wine makers organize and promote their wines • New details on the shocking closing of the 135-year-old Samaritaine department store • The new year will bring a plethora of major renovation reopenings and new openings Restaurants: A tour of the best cheese plates in town Everythings Great: A chat with Sandra Gustafson, author or "Great Eats Paris" and "Great Sleeps Paris" Day Tripping: A short list of the many ways to spend the day outside the city Paris Visit: Le Passe-Muraille, a fascinating story and statue in Montmartre Paris Visit: a famous pet cemetery just outside Paris
CAT AND MOUSE: Occupied Paris was the riskiest place for the Resistance to operate. Petites Notes: Eiffel Tower visitors on the rise • New Paris aquarium, AquaCinéto open • Louvre to ad a new Islamic Arts wing • WiFi Internet access multiplying • Mayor Delanoë loses Olympics ungraciously. Restaurant: Le Comptoir Sizing Up St-Lazare: The fabled train station was once Paris' most celebrated terminus Paris Pampering V: "Day Spas" are the newest way to relax and take comfort in Paris Paris Visit: Artist Constantin Brancusi's studio Paris Visit: the newly renovated Musée Cernuschi for Japanese and Chinese art
GARDEN PARTY: The artists who design Paris' 450 gardens use a palette of flowers instead of paint Petites Notes: Alain Senderens, the celebrated chef, closes Lucas Carton to reopen as a cheaper restaurant • Paris overwhelmingly votes Yes on the European constitution, unlike the rest of the country. Restaurants: Dans le Noir Think Zinc: Zinc café counters remained in vogue until the late 1920s The Calm of Cloisters: Covered walkways that provided a tranquil settings for meditation Paris Visit: Mémorial de la Shoah, and the Wall of Names Paris Visit: La Collection 1900, an exhibit of Pierre Cardin's famous Art Nouveau collection at Maxim's
METRO RETRO: Hector Guimard, "architect d'art," designed the Métro using forms in the plant and animal worlds Petites Notes: The Paris post office having problems • The City provides tourist kiosks manned by multilingual young people • The Batobus, the "Métro on the Seine coming into its own • Maintaining 400 bells keeps the City busy • The Paris water company wants Parisians to switch from bottles to tap water Restaurants: La Table du Lauriston Sunday in the Paris: Seurat painted working-class Parisians on the Ile de la Grande Jatte Russian Connection: St-Alexandre-Nevsky Church is the centerpiece of Paris' Little Russia Paris Visit: Pièce Montée for arranging weddings in Paris Paris Visit: Couvent des Récollets, a new cultural center with a fascinating past
ROYAL TREATMENT: The Palais Royal has changed little since the 1780s, when it was the city's fashionable heart Petites Notes: Mayor makes plan to eliminate cars from city center • Mona Lisa is moved to renovated room in the Louvre • Newspaper crier Ali Akbar, a St-Germain fixture • New church news Restaurants: Foujita 2, Asia-Tée Middle Ageless: More popular than enver, the Cluny sheds light on the "Dark Ages" Fleurs-de-Lis Search: The ubiquitous symbol of French royalty really isn't a lili, it's an iris Paris Visit: O Chateau wine tastings Paris Visit: City Walks of Paris walking tours
BELLY ACHE: Will wary Parisians swallow the design and future plans for the "new" Les Halles? Petites Notes: City of Paris Best Baguette Award • The Ministry of Culture's new building • Bed-and-Breakfasts on the rise in Paris • Guide to using Paris streets • Orangerie renovation update Restaurants: l'Atelier, Pinxo The Super Scarf: For classic style, an Hermès scarf is the ultimate accessory Keen on Croissants: Addressing the ongoing debate of who makes the best croissant Paris Visit: A la Carte cooking classes Paris Visit: Palais de Tokyo contemporary art center
OUT SOURCING: Discovering the remains of a water system that supplied Parisians for hundreds of years Petites Notes: Tourisim in Paris on the rise • Changing the City's 599 public clocks • Starbucks a year after its arrival • Grand Palais update • Women flock to a Père Lachaise Cemetery icon Restaurants: Pétrelle, Le Pré Verre, Astier, Mon Vieil Ami, Willi's Wine Bar Hot Chocolates: An attempt to narrow down the field of the city's best chocolates The Making of Marie: Marie Curie joined France's most exclusive men's club in 1995 Paris Visit: 30s Museum in Boulogne-Billancourt Paris Visit: Plaques et Pots enamel plaques and signs shop
MODI'S MONTMARTRE: Soulful artist Amedeo Modigliani found glory in terms of peer recognition, but it came too late Restaurants: Le Troquet Petites Notes: Franglo.com launches a Francophile/Francophone online community • A decision for the Les Halles renovation is made • The city makes its public restrooms free The Mighty Macaron: A common pastry has been transformed into Paris’ sexiest sweet Urbane Decay: Rusty, mossy, weathered, worn or decomposed—the “in” furnishings Paris Visit: La Maison Rouge contemporary art center Paris Visit: The Musée des Art Décoratifs' new Galerie des Bijoux (jewelry)
JUST FOR KICKS: High-kicking fun at Paris' fabled cabaret shows continues—the Moulin Rouge, Lido and Crazy Horse Petites Notes: Paris Live Radio hits the airwaves • Pierre Cardin opens a museum for Art Nouveau • The new Champs Elysées turns 10 • Smoke-free restaurants becoming a trend • The Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione, the greatest show in town Restaurants: Taillevent Firebird's Firebrand: Stravinsky caused a scandal when his "The Rite of Spring" opened Forty Somethings: With its many creative movements, the 40s style is back in fashion Paris Visit: The new Jeu de Paume center for photography Paris Visit: The Librarie Ulysse, a special book store for travel buffs FLEA SMITTEN: Whether visitors are browsing or buying, the Flea Market at Saint-Ouen wants them to feel welcome Petites Notes: Les Halles renovation debate continues • Nuit Blanche event deemed successful • Eiffel Tower to change hands • The mayor ask Parisians their opinions in a mailed survey • The Musée du Quai Branly progressing nicely, if late Restaurants: La Régalade, La Table du Lancaster Paris Pampering IV: The centuries-old hammam ritual is updated at three locations Eyes That Have It: Finding fashionable eyewear that "can change your personality" Paris Visit: Cow and Vache specialty shop for cow stuff Paris Visit: Serge Amoruso Boutique-Atelier for some of the finest leather in town
JEWEL OF A PLACE: Place Vendôme, home to many of the world's great jewelers, is a shining symbol of Paris prestige Petites Notes: The Métro is going high-tech • Paris is far from the most expensive city in the world • Artist "squat" at 59 Rue de Rivoli • New museum honoring immigrants announced • Taxi rates might be going up • Paris zoo in decline • Paris-Plage 2004 a big success Restuarants: Pétrelle Paris Pampering III: A visit to three excellent places to have a relaxing massage Hôtels Pas Cher: If all you need while in Paris are a clean bed and a pillow, read on Paris Visit: Gloria Cohen's Finds in Paris for visiting the Flea Market Paris Visit: Tumbleweed, a unique toyshop for kids and adults alike
BETTER BAGUETTES: In a city with a taste for bread, a new wave of master bakers is raising the baguette bar Petites Notes: Americans return to Paris • The Forum des Halles project delayed • New museum for letters and manuscripts • The City's intricate architectural protection system • The Jeu de Paume is transformed to a museum for photography Restaurants: Le Dôme du Marais, Les Papilles St-Aignan Survies: A tiny chapel on the Ile de la Cité makes it through nine centuries Pillow Talk: The Paris hotel scene is changing from traditional to "today" Paris Visit: RothRay, apartment renters who take pride in their properties Paris Visit: Rentals in Paris apartment rentals service offers service
EMPIRE BUILDING: "I intend to make Paris the most beautiful capital in the world," Napoleon said Petites Notes: Les Hall architectural competition • Where to buy Paris honey • Apartments still reasonable to buy • CDG Terminal collapse could have been worse • Mariage Frères tea company turns 150 Restaurants: Le Timbre, La Table de Joël Robuchon Spirit of St-Louis: Close to the "mainland," the Ile St-Louis remains a place apart Gaggle of Guinguettes: Eat, drink and be merry at a guinguette just outside Paris Paris Visit: New offerings from the Ritz cooking school Paris Visit: An icon's park: Parc Georges Brassens
FRANCOIS' FOLLIES: Revisiting President François Mitterrand's "grands travaux" a decade after he left office Petites Notes: Future Les Halles projects proposed • Ritz voted number one hotel • Grand Palais renovation making progress • "City Walks: Paris walking cards • City's goal of 100,000 trees • Mayors halfway mark • Garnier Opera's grand flyer reopens Restaurants: Le Café Constant, Le Cristal Room Flower Bowers: "Cités" with flowers—cozy nooks tucked into unexpected corners Literary Lairs: A tour of hotels where now-famous writers once stayed Paris Visit: Yunks unique fragrance store Paris Visit: Pâtisserie Gérard Mulot, home of the the master
FINDING FATHERS: The men who founded America are warmly remembered in the city where friendship flourished Petites Notes: Four free newspapers are now available • A movement to deface ads to make an anti-ad statement • The Metro considers extending hours on Fri and Sat • Gobelins tapestry factory restoration complete • Two new Paris books worth reading • Summer bike tour options Restaurants: Le Meurice, L'Angl'Opéra Art by Any Name: Interest in art from Africa and other distant continents is soaring Pathways to the Past: Traverse eight centuries of history on streets that began as paths Paris Visit: Le Prince Jardinier, a purveyor of chic garden items takes over Deyrolle Paris Visit: Paris Photo Tours offers photo tours and more END
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Editor: Mark Eversman / Paris Notes, 2009 © All Rights Reserved / Publishing since 1992 |
