Top 20 Paris Hotels
Where you stay can make your stay
By Amanda MacKenzie
Where you stay can make your stay, yet finding just the right place can be a daunting task. Open a guidebook, and you’re at the mercy of its last print-run. Take your search engine for a walk, and the choice is overwhelming. How often have you tracked down that “characterful”, family-run establishment only to find out it’s just been swallowed up by a big chain? Or been sent on a baffling cyber-chase ending summarily with a booking form? Frustrating, isn’t it?
This list is different. At Paris Notes, we know you’re a diverse crowd, with individual tastes and just a few shared qualities. You already know the city pretty well, or you’re well on the way to it. Prepared to spend around €200-€250 per night, you’re not impressed by hype, though you’re willing to splash out more on accommodation that adds that extra dimension to your stay. You’re loyal to great finds, but equally, you’re realistic. You accept that that last year’s Hotel Dernier Cri may be this year’s Hotel Complacent. That’s why this list is limited to a mere twenty hotels, which all stand out having that extra something. And it’s why it is continually under review.
Paris is a romantic city, but when it comes to reviewing hotels, I’m an unsentimental sort. I’ve listed the hotels by arrondissement, because ranking them otherwise would be even more subjective than it inevitably is. Each hotel has to earn (stay earning) its place here by merit alone. That means an old favorite may bow out at any time if, say, service there begins to flag, or if it shows signs of losing its lustre. It may simply be nudged aside by an irresistible new “find” that I think you have to know about.
So, a contemporary list, yes, but also a timely one. Paris remains a favoured destination for Americans and visitor numbers are on the rise once again. Yet there’s little doubt that the jitters of recent years have played their part in revitalising the city hotel scene. Scarcely a month goes by without a positive new development or an ambitious renovation, something that’s reflected (though never slavishly) in this selection. Any contender, new or established, is considered for potential inclusion among the Top Twenty…provided, of course, that it can offer guests an experience that is, at heart, Parisian. In short, we stay on our toes, so you don’t have to.
The List
Ordered by arrondissement
Criteria for list at bottom of the page
Hôtel Brighton
218 Rue de Rivoli, 1st. Tel: 1 47 03 61 61. Average double: €171.
With its faux-marble columns, mosaic floor and chandeliers, the Brighton still exudes fin-de-siècle bravura, from the days when it was named to honour of the Entente Cordiale with Britain. The classy entrance from the rue de Rivoli arcades leads past the tea room, a sea of starched linen, through to an engagingly anachronistic drawing room. Guest-rooms are spacious, with high ceilings and pale décor. Gilt-framed portraits and prints add a classical touch to the more expensive offerings. Best of all are the utterly regal views from Rivoli-side rooms and suites, some of which rejoice in walk-on balconies commanding the length of the Jardin des Tuileries. The city’s at your feet, the Louvre barely 5 minutes’ walk away. A mite impersonal, perhaps, but remarkable value.
Le Relais Saint-Honoré
308 Rue Saint-Honoré, 1st. Tel: 1 42 96 06 06. Average double: €196.
Two words sum up the Saint-Honoré: just so. At first sight, its willow-green front looks like one more posh shop (sugared almonds, anyone?) along this oh-so fashionable street. A small but perfectly-formed lobby sets the tone: dark green leather sofa, creamy lamps, smiling young man at the desk. The classic rooms are adequately sized, in a careful balance of chintz and plains, with painted beams taking up the story. Add fine linens and towels, slippers, flat-screen television and free Wifi, and the result is meticulous, yet unfussy. Breakfast is served in your room, a slight incentive, perhaps, to stretch to one of the mezzanine suites. From here, sally straight out to join the glitterati on the Place Vendôme, or browse the Antiquaires du Louvre.
Hôtel de la Bretonnerie
22 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4th : Tel: 1 48 87 77 63. Average double: €132.
I’ve given up wondering how it is that dark wood panelling, tapestry, venerable timbers and cranberry walls can possibly add up to a sense of homeliness, as they do at this heart-of-the-Marais hostelry. Cross the threshold, and you’re immediately immersed in Character. Unpretentious good value is the order of the day, here, with little touches that speak volumes – like the rows of local guidebooks for your perusal behind the lobby sofa. Upstairs, rambling corridors lead on to generous-sized rooms, all different, vaguely rustic, never twee. Forego the trendy street for the courtyard if you value your silent nights, and be sure to duck your head when negotiating the twisting stairway down to the vaulted breakfast room—unless you want to hear those ancient stones talk back to you.
Hôtel du Danube
58 Rue Jacob, 6th. Tel: 1 42 60 34 70. Average double: €163
Traditional family-run hotels are rare along the ever-popular rue Jacob, and that alone makes the Danube a little special. The floral lobby sets the tone, busy with that busy-ness that the French do so well. Some of the 40 rooms boast matching chinoiserie on walls and drapes; others are more restrained. Starting at €130, they include cosy courtyard doubles, adjoining family rooms and two exceptionally spacious, double-windowed rooms with equally vast bathrooms. (The management are happy to help steer you through the maze of choices.) There’s free internet access downstairs, as well as WiFi if you happen to be equipped. In summer, breakfast decamps to a pretty Oriental-inspired courtyard. A former hôtel particulier, this address was briefly home to Polish wartime leader-in-exile, General Sikorsky. Next door marks the spot where the American Declaration of Independence was signed.
Hôtel des Deux-Iles
65 Rue Saint Louis-en-l’Ile, 4th: Tel: 1 43 26 13 35. Average double: €170.
If there were an adequate French word for “cosy”, it would certainly apply to the Ile Saint-Louis, whose quaint, historic streets ensure that it remains a favourite with us Anglo-Saxons. One of three hotels in the same price range, the Deux-Iles just swings it here in terms of ambience and value. In the warm, ethnic lobby, a deep raftered ceiling hints at this former convent’s 400-odd years. The rooms, with their creamy walls and provençal colors, are all double-windowed, some overlooking the steady stream of Ile-amblers below. In larger rooms, the bathrooms boast the same pretty Portuguese tiles that adorn the hotel’s tiny courtyard. And, for the ultimate in cosiness, the low-vaulted breakfast room and hidey-hole is a treat in winter when they stoke up the open fire.
Hôtel le Jeu de Paume
54 Rue Saint Louis-en-l’Ile, 4th: Tel: 1 43 26 14 18. Average double: €270.
Space is in short supply on the Ile Saint-Louis, with its narrow streets and pockets-sized antique shops. That’s why the vast lounge-bar-breakfast room of the Jeu de Paume, all lofty light and soaring beams, comes as such an agreeable surprise. The pared-down structure of this 17th century former real tennis court is enhanced by terracotta flagged floors, sculpture and faintly art deco armchairs. Add friendly family management, and you’d be hard put to find a more welcome retreat after an afternoon’s browsing and grazing. Rooms are crisply furnished and, if some are small-ish, they are forgivably so in this exclusive neighbourhood, especially those with a garden view. You won’t need your racquet, but there’s a gym downstairs to help you work off Maison Berthillon’s ice-cream.
Hôtel Saint Merry
78 Rue de la Verrerie, 4th. Tel: 1 42 78 14 15. Average double: €195.
It has no television, no air-con, no Wifi, not even an elevator to its name. The Saint Merry is uncompromisingly eccentric—and who are we to object? If your fantasy tends towards the gothic, you’ll find this former church presbytery caters admirably. Rooms overlooking the busy, ancient street range from the modest to the grandiose. Typically, stone walls and simple throws set off the steepleback chairs, dark carved bedheads, wall sconces and scrolled iron chandeliers. Nor is it just pastiche; the flying buttresses which swoop down on either side of the bed in room 9 are tangibly real. Breakfast comes to you. Step outside, and you’re in the bustle of the Marais, home to Paris’ trendiest design shops, and an amble away from the Hôtel de Ville and Beaubourg.
Hotel de Notre Dame Maître-Albert
19 Rue Maître-Albert, 5th. Tel: 1 43 26 79 00. Average double 170€.
Smart or cosy? Checks or flowers? Can’t make up your mind? Then you’re in luck, because this friendly 34-room hotel strikes lots of compromises without fudging on value. Hidden away at the end of a narrow, arty street, its carmine red frontage is calculated to cheer. Once inside, rugs add warmth to the marble-floored reception where pride of place goes to a splendid tapestry of doting fauns. Behind, the lounge-bar with its old-fashioned dresser and leather sofas is a commodious place to enjoy a nightcap. Upstairs, there’s a Caledonian touch to the cherry and teal check clad walls, while rooms themselves are furnished with unfussy charm. Some are draped in ikat-style fabric; most make a feature of ancient masonry and beams. Most rooms have free WiFi access, but if the 17th century walls interfere, you can always repair downstairs to get online.
Hôtel Le Clos Médicis
56 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 6th: Tel: 1 43 29 10 80. Average double: €270.
On entering, you’re greeted by a deliciously woody odour, from the open fire they light in winter. Then you take in the harmonious sitting room-bar: the stone walls, the wood and earth-tones, the big lamps, the hessian sofa waiting for you to sink into. On a relatively quiet street just around the corner from the Boul’ Saint-Mich, the Clos Médicis is discreet, welcoming, and shines more brightly than its three star rating might lead you to expect. Two rather special rooms have private terraces. Some have raftered ceilings; all are soothingly “zen” with plain fabric walls, uncluttered windows and soft lighting. The small bathrooms are a quibble. Free Wifi access in the rooms, a modest but scrupulously-kept courtyard garden and a team of ever-cheerful staff complete the picture.
Hôtel des Grands Hommes
17 Place du Panthéon, 6th: Tel: 1 46 34 19 60. Average double: €240
A very select class of neighbour lies slumbering out eternity under the golden dome of the Panthéon. You should sleep soundly, too, if you happen to be cosseted in the elegance of the Hôtel des Grands Hommes just opposite. Gravitas prevails. Rich in buttermilks and golds, the rooms feature classical reliefs, urns and stripes, tamed with that dash of restraint that puts the Style into Empire. Those looking onto the square benefit from a sense of openness that’s rare in the city, but you can trump that if you’re prepared to splash out on a 6th floor terrace overlooking the cupola. Downstairs, Brutus rubs shoulders with Augustus, while Voltaire grimaces from his niche behind reception. Happily, the staff are infinitely more approachable.
L’Hôtel
13 Rue des Beaux Arts, 6th. Tel: 1 43 25 64 81. Average double: €280-330.
“This wallpaper will be the death of me,” said Oscar Wilde before he breathed his last in room 16. Too bad; he’d have loved the smart galleries that pepper this ultra-artsy corner of the Left Bank. Penniless playwrights should look elsewhere, but if you’re intent on indulgence, L’Hôtel is a good place to start. All its rooms are thoroughly theatrical with unexpected flourishes, handsome “objets” and silk rugs. The Madame de Merteuil is an invitation to plot languidly under rich damask. The Pondichéry is exotic in gold and purple, complete with serene deity. Bathrooms, furnished with repro antique fittings, are not overly large, but come with character to spare. Downstairs, there’s a well-stocked bar, the Bélier restaurant, a peaceful terrace. Keep going, to wallow in the turkish steam room and the deep pool, cradled under the vaults.
Hôtel Le Saint-Grégoire
43 Rue de l’Abbaye Grégoire, 6th: Tel: 1 45 48 23 23. Average double: €207.
Anonymous chain hotels are encroaching on this relatively sleepy corner of the Left Bank, but happily the Saint-Grégoire is an instant antidote. Outside, the clean lines of this 18th century townhouse reassure. Inside, its air of intimacy and quiet elegance clinches things. The reception, adjoined by a tranquil sitting-room, has an open fireplace to welcome you on wintry days, and there’s a jungly gem of a garden at the back. Rooms are comfortably-sized and come with crisp, white bedspreads, Turkish rugs, and the individual style that only a well-polished old buffet or carefully chosen crystal lamp can impart. For literattis, the Bistros Flore and Deux Mégots are close by. And, while we’re talking of comfort, the foodies’ delight, la Grande Épicerie (inside Le Bon Marché) is closer still.
Le Relais Saint-Germain
9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th: Tel: 1 44 27 07 97. Average double: €310.
You wanted beams? Well, here they are: massive, ancient and delightfully wood-wormy. Surrounded by Left Bank buzz, and within easy walking distance of Notre Dame and the Louvre, this is an enviable address. From top to bottom, the Relais Saint-Germain is furnished with flair. Large mirrors juggle with light and space, and an eclectic choice of oils and engravings add interest throughout. Rooms are generously-sized, and some boast wide, luxuriously draped windows from which you can watch life going by on the carrefour, clocking the wistful glances of passers-by as you do. There’s a book-lined sitting-room, where you can catch up on the papers. At breakfast-time, the café-bar next door is reserved for guests, at least until mid-morning, when the world and his wife/mistress/business partner flock in.
Villa d’Estrées
14 Rue Gît-le-Coeur, 6th: Tel: 1 55 42 71 11. Average double: €260.
The surrounding Latin quarter may have its feet in the 15th century, but within the walls of this smart hotel, the Empire strikes back—and more than holds its own. Symmetry prevails in the lobby and breakfast room, sumptuous in striped velvets, geometric-tiled floor and black lacquered beams. The air of late Napoleonic refinement extends all the way to the rooms. Double-windowed and roomy enough to accommodate a stripey fauteuil or two, they come in rich reds, tans and military blues. Crisp, white bedcovers and austere prints contrast impeccably. In the bathrooms, glistening, licorice-black Moroccan tiles add a dash of the exotic. It’s a terribly civilised place, the Villa; discreet, tranquil, and yet barely a stone’s throw from the hurly burly of rue Saint André des Arts.
Hôtel de l’Elysée
12 Rue des Saussaies, 8th: Tel: 1 42 65 29 25. Average double: €180.
There’s something reassuringly respectable, not to say a little old-fashioned about this address. Just round the corner from the Elysée Palace, the spruce entrance gives onto marbled floors and finely faux-marbled walls, light flooding in from large geranium-decked windows. With its gold damasks bleu-de-france carpets and fauteuil-à-trois (always a talking point, that), the sitting-room aspires to opulence, but stops sensibly short of it. Upstairs, classic rooms are decked in toile de Jouy, with wooden bedsteads and white coverlets, the odd Peynet print adding a further dash of Parisian nostalgia. Antiquaires and glovemakers populate a street that is sedate enough, especially at weekends, to ensure a good night’s sleep. And there’s the charm of it. The Grand and Petit Palais are the briefest of strolls away, and the Champs Élysée scintillate nearby.
16 Rue de Constantinople, 8th. Tel: 1 45 22 21 64. Average double: €115.
Tumbling geraniums garland the balconies of the New Orient’s spick-and-span facade, a clue to the welcome inside. The hotel’s philosophy is simple: better strive for distinction among the 2 stars, than join the rank-and-file in the next category up. “We like our customers contented,” say the owners—and if you want to pay less without trading in too many creature comforts, this well-run establishment should please. Rooms are cheerfully furnished in primrose or butterscotch; all have Wifi access and a desk to park your laptop. Carved bed-heads and other solid, vintage finds add character. Bathrooms are small but “très correct.” A fine old long-case clock ticks in a downstairs breakfast room looking out onto a quartier of sheet-music sellers and "luthiers." Nearby, the grands magasins and Montmartre.
Hôtel Lavoisier
21 Rue Lavoisier, 8th. Tel: 1 53 30 06 06. Average double: €235.
There are two good reasons why you might fall for the Lavoisier. For one, it has all the intimacy and character you could want in a home-away-from-home. For another, it’s in a plum spot between the grands magasins and the place de la Madeleine—yet still tranquil enough for it to slip your mind now and then. Fine old portraits breathe life into the handsome reception (Great Aunt Berthe would surely have approved). An impressive wrought iron staircase beckons to rooms styled in accents of raspberry and café-au-lait—though they’re a mite small if you’re set on breakfast in bed. Behind reception, there’s a gentlemanly hide-away where you can pour yourself a nightcap from the honesty bar, and leaf through the rows of leather-bound volumes until you turn up inspiration.
Hôtel Le Général
5/7 Rue Rampon, 11th: Tel: 1 47 00 42 57. Average double: €190.
Small, trendy hotels in this mould are starting to spring up, and high time, too. What sets the Général apart is its determination to hit a neat balance of originality and value. Check-in is completed breezily from the embrace of a soft chocolate sofa. Beyond, the bar is sleek and chic, accented in the kind of pink they used to call shocking. But the surprises here all tend towards the agreeable. Rooms are stylish and airy, with shiny green apples propped on pillows, tea and coffee-making at the ready. There’s a small gym and sauna and, for those who can’t live without their shiatsu fix, massages by arrangement. Close to République, Le Général is rather at the edge of classic Paris, but well-placed for the Marais, the Canal St Martin and Oberkampf’s lively nightlife.
Hôtel Eldorado
18 Rue des Dames, 17th. Tel: 1 45 22 35 21. Average for double: €60.
If you’re not flush with cash, you may feel you’ve just struck gold with this resolutely different little hotel in up-and-coming Batignolles, situated between Monceau and Montmartre. The Eldorado is a no-star establishment, though only because the management are too non-conformist to play for them. But the vibes are friendly as you enter the snug reception with its original city map from 1739 and snoozing cat. Beyond, there’s a bistro overlooking a leafy courtyard out of earshot of the street. The mildly eclectic rooms are furnished with vintage bits picked up during the owners’ travels, and loosely themed. Not all rooms are en-suite and the towels come in a medley—but, then, who’ll stand on ceremony at this price? Down the road, trendy new bars and restaurants cluster round old Square Batignolles.
Hôtel Relais Montmartre
6 Rue Constance, 18th. Tel: 1 70 64 25 25. Average double: €170.
If you’re still an Amélie fan (and who isn’t?) this friendly, new establishment should fairly gladden your heart. A few steps away from the hurly-burly of the Moulin Rouge and rue Lepic, along a sleepy street replete with potted blooms and wisteria, the Relais Montmartre is unexpectedly intimate and tranquil. Behind its unassuming façade, you’ll find bright rooms, where stripes add restraint to the country florals, and the old beams are picked out in olive green or chateauneuf red. There’s a small but pleasant courtyard for dipping your croissants on warm days, and a vaulted stone breakfast room calculated to cheer out of season. The rest you know; les zincs, les steps, and le Sacré Coeur, (but don’t miss a peek at the wonderful gothic mansion in neighbouring impasse Marie-Blanche.)
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Paris Hotel Criteria for Inclusion in the Top 20 list
To earn a place in our Top 20, hotels had to meet the requirements below:
A great overall stay
In many cases, your experience of a hotel will start at its website, and extend all the way through to your taxi reservation or luggage pick-up after you’ve checked out. While it’s impossible to predict that every detail of your stay will be smoothly managed, a welcoming and helpful attitude can make all the difference. That’s equally true of modest budget hotels as it is of high-end splurges.
Good value for the money
Only a handful of city hotels qualify for the categories of “Palace” or “Prestige,” and you can expect them to vie comfortably with any top-class hotel anywhere in the world. You won’t find them listed here, precisely because you chose … Paris. Elsewhere, the picture is blurred. 4 star-standard or 3 star-and-striving? If only life were so simple. Within the complex official classification system, the fact is that one hotel may work harder for your money than another whose galactic aspirations have been rewarded. Value – in facilities, services and individuality – underpins this list.
Personal comfort
In a city where space is at a premium, you’ll pay more for a room with a view and a bathroom worthy of its fluffy towels. That said, regardless of your budget, you should find your room a pleasant pied à terre in the city, with a baseline minimum of amenities, airiness, light and peace to write your postcards or even emails home.
That special something
Captivating view; razor-sharp styling; intimate, leafy courtyard… By definition, hotels that make it onto the list have a certain quality that distinguishes them from the crowd. Bland and forgettable cut no ice here. But neither do gimmicks.
Location, location, location
The first two are for "city-central" and "convenience," because your time in Paris is precious. The third is for "quartier," and you’ll find some of your favorites here. One man’s oasis of calm is another man’s weekend wilderness, something that may not be obvious from arrondissement alone. I find it hard to describe a hotel without referring to its surroundings, and you probably wouldn’t want me to.
Amanda MacKenzie is a Paris-based freelance writer and photographer. In addition to writing for PN, she is a regular travel contributor to a number of UK and US publications, covering subjects as diverse as panning for gold in Scotland, touring the favelas of Rio, and the world of "Uncle Yuri", director of Moscow's unique cat circus.
Hotels previously on the list, but replaced
Hôtel de l'Abbaye
10 Rue Cassette, 6th. Tel: 01 45 44 38 11. Average double: €255.
If only Quasimodo could have checked in here, rather than that drafty, old belfry. Set back in its own courtyard from an already quietish street, the Abbaye is a sanctuary. Devotees appreciate the calm atmosphere of its green-latticed drawing room, and the sun-trap garden beyond, complete with a bubbling fountain that might have been there forever. Incongruous touches – the odd Warhol screenprint—add a mildly eclectic note to some rooms. All are reasonably-sized and thoroughly un-monastic. Count on flat-screen television, elegant fabrics, and the thickest of thick-weave towels among your creature comforts. Outside, a neighbourhood of genteel boutiques and antiquarian booksellers rubs shoulders with Saint-Sulpice and the Jardin du Luxembourg.
Hôtel Le Tourville
16 Ave de Tourville, 7th. Tel: 1 47 05 62 62. Average double: €195.
Recently revamped in pale wood and spruce checks, with yachting and aviation images along the walls, the reception of the Tourville now sports a slightly masculine air. Not so the rooms. Fetchingly furnished in soft apricots, golds or pinks, they err on the side of fun rather than fuss. Both rooms (and bathrooms) are a little bigger than the norm—all the better to accommodate the character touches of a well-veneered old chest or a lavishly scrolled mirror plucked from obscurity. Most have double windows, too, some with step-out balconies overlooking the École Militaire. Tantalisingly out of sight, the Eiffel Tower is a mere five minutes’ walk away; les Invalides and the Musée Rodin barely that. Easy to see why this friendly hotel remains a favourite.
Hôtel de Banville
166 Blvd Berthier, 17th. Tel: 1 42 67 70 16. Average double: €255.
I know, you don’t do hotels at the end of Métro lines. But the Banville, situated in a respectable, residential quartier with a sprinkling of better-than-average restaurants, is proof that some rules are worth bending. Outside, the hotel’s creamy art deco facade cuts a dash. Inside, oil paintings adorn a lobby dominated by the gleaming baby grand that comes to life on Tuesdays, when singer and third-generation owner, Marianne Moreau takes the floor. The family ambience is appealing, enhanced by the sure touch of Mme M’s interior designer husband. Ranging from 70s-inspired mock-veneer, to organdie and cherry-red velvet romance, the spacious rooms are distinctive, stylish, but not over the top. And if you’re lucky enough to stay in "Amélie," you can breakfast on the balcony against a backdrop of rooftops, the Tour Eiffel and the Arc de Triomphe.
Hôtel Le Duret
30 Rue Duret, 16th. Tel: 1 45 00 42 60. Average double: €243.
Part way between the city’s two grandest arches, this rather monumental district isn’t an obvious choice for hotels. There again, when you need a city foothold that’s within easy travelling of the business districts of La Defense and Porte Maillot, the Duret is decidedly a find. Down a residential side-street that still maintains its “quartier” feel, this hotel has been transformed to deliver a stylish, friendly welcome—while somehow managing to keep its Parisian flavour. Arnaud de Petiville’s unlikely palette of mocha, aubergine and pistachio green is smartly pulled together by the candy-striped carpets and monochrome pictures; the result is light, bright and upbeat. Rooms come slightly more muted and roomier than the norm. Ditto the bathrooms, clean-cut in slate and sandstone.
Terrass Hôtel
12-14 Rue Joseph le Maistre, 18th. Tel: 1 44 92 34 14. Average double: €183.
When it comes to views to die for, it’s hard to match the sight of chanteuse, icon and former Montmartre resident, Dalida, magnificent in life-size and in gold at the far end of the cemetery. The Terrass offers still more; treat yourself to one of the pricier rooms with walk-on balcony, and you’ll find all your favourite landmarks (bar the Basilique) spread out before you. More business-orientated than most of our listings, the Terrass strives hard to be personal. The lobby is pleasantly arty with bronzes and paintings “just passing through”. Trompe d’oeuil elevators lead to classically-inclined rooms draped in sunny shades of primrose and peach. Downstairs, the Diapason boasts a keen, young chef, while the 7th floor Terrasse Panoramique is perfect for tea on balmy Montmartre afternoons.
